Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Bridal Gown Definitions

I can well imagine that some of you brides-to-be may be confused by mass of bridal terminology used when you go to the bridal salon or just looking through a bridal magazine. Here are some definitions to assist you:

SILHOUETTES
A-line - Originated by Christian Dior, skirt flares away from body from under arms to hem; fitting through shoulders; similar to the princess-line.
Ball gown - Narrow-waisted shape with a full, bell-shaped skirt supported by petticoats or hoops.
Empire - High waisted, with the skirt falling directly under the bust-line.
Fishtail - See mermaid.
Mermaid - Body-hugging style with a skirt that flares at or just below the knee; also called fishtail.
Princess-line - Fitted through shoulders and bodice, skirt flares gently outward; no waistline.
Sheath - Svelte, narrow-fitting shape that contours the body; no waistline.
Suit - Modern shape finished with a jacket or coat.

LENGTHS
Ballerina - Falls to or slightly below the center of the calf.
Floor - Most traditional length, rests about an inch from the floor.
Hi-lo - See intermission
Intermission - Hemline falls to the mid-calf in front, floor-length in back; also called hi-lo.
Knee - Hemline just covers the knee; non-traditional length; also called street.
Mini - Above the knee; often chosen by second-time brides.
Street - See knee.
Tea - Hemline falls to the lower part of the calf.

WAISTLINES
Assymetrical - Begins at the natural waistline and angles down to one side.
Basque - Sits at the natural waistline in the back ad dips lower to form a V-shape in the front.
Blouson - Fabric is gathered just below or at the waist, creating a soft fullness.
Dropped - Falls below the natural waistline in classic flapper style.
Empire - Begins just below the bust line.
Natural - Sits at the waist.

NECKLINES
Assymetrical - Begins at the shoulder and angles down to opposite side.
Bateau - Shallow curve cut the same in front and back; also called boat.
Bertha collar - A wide, deep collar that covers the shoulders of a low-neckline dress.
Boat - See bateau.
Halter - Fastens at the back of the neck, leaving the bare back.
Illusion - High collar made of a sheer fabric such as net, point d'esprit, or chiffon; appears almost invisible.
Jewel - High, rounded neckline with no collar or binding.
Off-the-shoulder - Falls just below the shoulder, with a collar or sleeve on the arm.
Portrait - Open neckline with a high back, gathered in front above the bust-line; leaves shoulders completely bare.
Queen Anne - High at nape of neck; sweeps low in front.
Sabrina - Extends from shoulder to shoulder, curving slightly down below the collarbone.
Square - Half-square or a rectangular neckline.
Scoop - Low, curved sweep extending to the shoulders; may be cut deep in front, back or both.
Strapless - No neckline, straight across the upper bust bodice.
Sweetheart - Low-cut, resembling the rounded curves of a heart.
V - Shaped like a V; cut deep or shallow in front, back or both.
Wedding band collar - High, fitted collar, popular in the 1890s.

SLEEVES
Bishop - Full sleeve gathered into a band at the wrist.
Cap - Short sleeve that just covers the top of the arm.
Gigot - See leg o'mutton.
Juliet - Long, fitted sleeve with short puff at the shoulder.
Leg-o'mutton - Wide and rounded at shoulder, fitting snugly on the lower arm; also called gigot.
Puff - Short, rounded sleeve; gathered at armhole or cuff.
Three-quarter - Ends just below the elbow; often finished with small cuff or band.
Wedding point - V-shaped extension of a long, fitted sleeve that comes to a point over the bride's hand.

TRAINS
Cathedral - Longer than one yard; reserved for the most formal weddings.
Chapel - Formal; extends about one yard.
Court - Separate piece of fabric that falls from the shoulders.
Detachable - Normally attached at back of waist, but may attach to the shoulders or wrap around the waist.
Sweep - Just brushes the floor.
Watteau - Cascades from the shoulders.

SKIRT DETAILS
American handkerchief - When the train is pulled up, it makes a triangle which points to the zipper on the back of the skirt.
Bustle - A gathering of fabric (may include the train) at the back waistline of the gown.
Carriage back - See pannier.
Carriage front - See pannier.
Flounce - A wide piece of fabric or lace gathered and attached at the hem.
French - Inverted inside the skirt.
Pannier - Gathered fabric draped over the sides of the hips; also called carriage front or carriage back.
Tiered - Layers panels of fabric that fall from the waist to the hem in varying lengths

VEILS
Ballet - Comes to just an inch above the floor, also called waltz.
Bird cage - Stiff; cover the face, falls just below the chin.
Blusher - Loose, worn forward over the bride's face or lifted back over the headpiece.
Cathedral - Falls 3 1/2 yards from the headpiece; ultra-formal.
Chapel - Falls 2 1/2 yards from the headpiece; formal.
Fingertip - Most popular style, reaches to the fingertips; suitable for all but ultra-formal gowns.
Flyaway - Multiple layers that just brush the shoulders.
Illusion - Transparent fabric panel or yoke.
Waltz - See Ballet.

HEADPIECES
Floral wreath - Worn over the forehead or nestled in the hair.
Juliet cap - Fits tightly to crown of head; may be made entirely of pearls or jewels.
Mantilla - Lace veil worn surrounding face.
Profile - Decorative comb worn on one side of head silhouetting the face.
Tiara - Crown or half-crown that rests on top of the head.

LACE
Alenćon - A delicate floral or leaf design on a fine-net background, outlined with heavy threads to define the pattern and add more dimension.
Battenberg - A heavy lace made with patterns of linen braid and tape connected with decorative linen stitching.
Chantilly - A web-like floral pattern outlined with silk threads on a lace background; soft to the touch.
Guipure - A heavy lace designed to show large patterns over a coarse-mesh background.
Lyon - An intricate, ornamental design delicately stitched over a net background; the pattern is outlined in silk or cotton.
Point d’esprit - Oval dots woven in a pattern on net fabric.
Schiffli - Intricate floral pattern (similar to Alenćon lace but lighter) embroidered directly onto the gown.
Venice - Heavy floral or leaf pattern in needlepoint, with motifs connected in lines.

OTHER TERMS...
Corset - A lace-up bodice that comes in a two-piece or one-piece style of gown; left and right sides of gown are laced up in the middle with a ribbon or tie.
Embroidered - Stitching onto the dress that is the same color of the gown or an accent color; usually a design of flowers, leaves, scrolling, lines, or initials.
Appliqué - a cutout decoration fastened to a larger piece of material.
Bust belt - Elastic that is sewn to the inside front of the gown that is fastened in the back of the gown; keeps a strapless dress from slipping down; also called a seat belt.
Seat belt - See bust belt.

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